Phnom Penh
The capital still retains an undeniable charm despite its tumultuous and often violent past. The crumbling colonial architecture makes an attractive backdrop to bustling streetside cafes and the redeveloped riverfront precinct - a particularly lively part of town on Friday and Saturday nights. The city has several impressive wats (temple-monasteries), including Wat Ounalom (headquarters of the Cambodian Buddhist patriarchate), Wat Phnom (the hilltop pagoda which gave the city its name) and the newly painted Wat Lang Ka. Pride of place goes to the spectacular Silver Pagoda, one of the few places in Cambodia where artefacts embodying the brilliance and richness of Khmer culture were preserved by the Khmer Rouge (although only 40% of its former glories were 'preserved'). The National Museum is another highlight, with outstanding displays of Khmer crafts.
The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are a grisly reminder of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge. Some 17,000 people were killed here, just 15km south-west of the city centre, and more than 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are visible behind the glass panel of the Memorial Stupa, which was erected in 1988. Prior to their murder, the victims had been detained at the prison known as S-21, housed in the Tuol Svay Prey High School. Today, the Tuol Sleng Museum serves as testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge, and few details of each victim's torture and death are left to the imagination.
The Central Market area, which includes Monirong Blvd, is the main centre for budget travellers, with cheap accommodation and plenty of food stalls. Head to the city's half-dozen or so street markets to browse and bargain for jewellery, antiques or the ubiquitous kramas (checked cotton scarves). The riverfront is the place to go for cheap beer and good food.
The ideal months to be in Cambodia are December and January, when humidity is bearable, temperatures are cooler and it's unlikely to rain. From February onwards it starts getting pretty hot, and April is unbearably so. The wet season (from May to October), though very soggy, can be a good time to visit Angkor, as the moats will be full and the foliage lush - but steer clear of the northeast regions during those months, as the going gets pretty tough when the tracks are waterlogged. The country's biggest festival, Bon Om Tuk, is held in early November, and is well worth catching
The successor-state of the mighty Khmer Empire - which ruled much of what is now Vietnam, Laos and Thailand - Cambodia boasts a rich culture, French-era (albeit a little weathered) capital and impressive natural scenery. The peace is young but relatively stable, and the country is slowly attracting the tourism currently sweeping neighbouring Vietnam. However, the proliferation of land mines and banditry in remote areas means the picture isn't all rosy, and for now the beaten path remains by far the one best travelled.
Warning (updates)
Despite the easing of political tensions in Cambodia, sporadic outbreaks of violence still occur. Visitors are advised to avoid demonstrations and political gatherings, and to generally exercise caution. Cambodia remains one of the world's most heavily landmined countries, with an estimated four to six million UXOs dotted around the countryside waiting to be detonated. The most heavily mined part of the country is the Battambang, Banteay Meanchey, Pursat, Siem Reap and Kampong Thom provinces, but landmines are a problem nationwide. It's advisable to travel with a local guide in rural areas, and never venture off the path into forest or dry paddy fields - even when you're at Angkor. Avoid solo travel during the day outside provincial towns, and in all parts of the country at night. Street crime remains a problem in the capital - take particular care at night, and travel by taxi, rather than moto or cyclo. The potential for general banditry and lawlessness is high in the areas between Kratie, Snuol and Stung Treng, due in part to the illegal logging that goes on in the region.
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(source lonely planet )
Activities
With tourism in Cambodia still in its infancy, activities as such are generally limited to sightseeing. Phnom Penh's population of foreigners are kept entertained by a swag of leisure activities like go-carting, jet-skiing, mini golf and tenpin bowling. A network of national parks is slowly being established nationwide, complete with visitor facilities; Ream and Bokor on the south coast are the most accessible and interesting. There's limited trekking and elephant rides in Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri, but you need a guide. If you fancy a spot of snorkelling you could try Sihanoukville (also known as Kompong Som), home to Cambodia's finest beaches
Culture
Thankfully, much of Cambodia's cultural heritage survived the Khmer Rouge's 'clean slate' approach to history. Along with the estimated two million Cambodians who died, millions of artefacts, statues and books were destroyed, but famous examples of Angkorian-era architecture like Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom emerged relatively unscathed. The National Museum in Phnom Penh is the best place to see examples of Khmer sculpture, in particular the beautifully depicted Hindu deities. The country's most tangible link with its glorious past is its highly stylised royal ballet, traditionally linked to the dance of Thailand, Java and India. Dance was also threatened by the Pol Pot years, with only one seamstress surviving to pass on the ancient techniques of costume design.
Theravada Buddhism is Cambodia's dominant religion. Khmer is the official language - it's a tricky one to learn, but a little will go a long way. English is fast becoming the dominant second language, overtaking French, which is still spoken by many people who grew up before the 1970s.
In general, Khmer cuisine is similar to Thai, but with fewer spices. A Cambodian meal almost always includes a soup, and fish is the nation's mainstay - grilled freshwater fish, wrapped in lettuce or spinach and dipped into a nutty fish sauce, is a particular speciality. 'Salad' dishes are flavoured with coriander, mint and lemongrass - three flavours which find their way into many Cambodian dishes. The French influence is best seen in the daily-baked bread. Sweet dishes include sticky rice cakes and jackfruit pudding. Tap water is best avoided, so stock up on mineral water, fruit-smoothy concoctions and the usual array of soft drinks. The proliferation of 'muscle wines' are best avoided.
